Dave “Davy” Vaughan (AKA Julio Garbonzo)

DSC Member since 1971 (founding member)

Current Residence: Bozeman

Email: davevaughan (at) q.com

Climbing Curriculum Vitae

1950-64

Over 500 climbs in the eastern Alps, mainly in the Dolomites;

1965

Ortler North Face (Direttissima), 1st ascent;

1966

“Walker Spur”, Grandes Jorasses; Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero North Face, 2nd ascent;

1967

Civetta Northwest Face “Weg der Freunde”, 1st ascent; Agnér North Edge, 1st winter ascent; Furchetta North Face, 1st winter ascent; Agnér Northeast Face, 1st ascent;

1968

Agnér North Face, 1st winter ascent; Eiger North Pillar, 1st ascent; Marmolata South Face (Direct.), 1st ascent;

1969

Expedition in the Andes; Droites North Face, 1st solo ascent; Marmolata di Rocca South Face (Direttissima), 1st solo ascent; Civetta, “Philipp Flamm”, 1st solo ascent;

1970

Nanga Parbat (8125m) Rupal Side, 1st ascent;

1971

Expeditions in Nepal, Pakistan, Persia, East Africa, New Guinea;

1972

Manaslu (8156m) South Face, 1st ascent; Noshaq (7492m), Hindu Kush;

1973

Pelmo Northwest Face, 1st ascent; Marmolata West Pillar, 1st ascent; Furchetta West Face, 1st ascent;

1974

Aconcagua (6959m) South Face, 1st ascent; Eiger North Face in 10 hours;

1975

Hidden Peak (8068m) Northwest Face, 1st ascent of an 8000-metre peak in alpine style;

1976

Mount McKinley (6193m), “Wall of the Midnight Sun”, 1st ascent;

1977

Failed on Dhaulagiri (8167m) South Face;

1978

Mount Everest (8846m), 1st ascent without oxygen; Nanga Parbat (8125m) Diamir Side, 1st solo ascent of an 8000-metre peak; Kilimanjaro (5963m), “Breach Wall”, 1st ascent;

1979

K2 (8611m), 1st ascent in alpine style; rescue operation on Ama Dablam ; Hoggar-expedition, Africa;

1980

Mount Everest (8846m) North Side, 1st solo ascent;

1981

Shisha Pangma (8012m), Tibet; Chamlang (7317m), North Face of the central summit, 1st ascent;

1982

Kangchenchunga (8598m) North Face, 1st ascent; Gasherbrum II (8035m) and Broad Peak (8048m) – first time that three 8000-metre peaks were climbed in one season; failed on Cho Oyu(8222m)in winter;

1983

Cho Oyu (8222m) Southwest Side in alpine style;

1984

1st traverse of two 8000-metre peaks: Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II;

1985

Annapurna (8091m) Northwest Face, 1st ascent; Dhaulagiri (8167m) Northeast Edge, in alpine style;

1986

failed on Makalu (8485m) in winter; expedition in eastern Tibet; ascent of Makalu (8485m), Lhotse (8511m) and Mount Vinson (4897m, Antarctica);

1987

Journey to Bhutan and the Pamirs;

1988

Yeti-Tibet-expedition;

1989

Failed on Lhotse (8511m) South Face;

1989/90

Traversed Antarctica (via the South Pole) on foot – 2800km;

1991

Traversed Bhutan (east to west); hikes in South Tyrol – 800km;

1992

Ascent of Chimborazo (6310m), Ecuador; crossed the Takla Makan desert (south to north), Sinkiang;

1993

Journey to the Dolpo, Mustang and Manang areas in Nepal; traversed Greenland (diagonal – from southeast to northwest on foot – 2200km;

1994

Himalayan environmental trek to Gangotri in India (Shivling 6543m); Ruwenzori (5119m), Uganda;

1995

Failed on an attempt to traverse the Arctic (Siberia to Canada); Belucha (4506m), Altai, Siberia;

1996

Journey through East Tibet (Chengdu to Lhasa) and to the Kailash;

1997

Journey to Kham (eastern Tibet); Karakorum-expedition; documentary on the Ol Doinyo Lengai in Africa (holy mountain of the Massai);

1998

Journey to the Altai Mountains (Mongolia) and to Puna de Atacama (Andes);

1999

Documentary on San Francisco Peaks, USA (holy mountain of the Navajos);

2000

Retraced Shackleton’s historic steps across South Georgia Island; Nanga-Parbat-expedition; Fujiama (documentary about the holy mountain).

2001 – current

Intensive in patient treatment at Warm Springs, MT for Chronic Prevarication Syndrome; addiction to pork and single malt scotch

Submitted pictures are the sole responsibility of Davy:

Webmaster Comments:

Now you have a snapshot of the mindset of one of the DSC founders.

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